Ford B-Max Basic Servicing

I'm going to add to this as I will do each job as and when it arises. First up- the bane of many a service- oil and filter change. Fairly simple yes, but a huge potential for messy outcomes! I find a drainage bowl is a must and I combine this with a drip tray (actually a gro-bag support tray from a garden centre) and puppy training mats to absorb spills. 

First point. Access to the underside of the car is restricted because the body sits so low. I raised the car on ramps but really it should be raised level if you want to use the dipstick or you'll get a false reading after refill. The alternative is to know how much oil comes out and replace only that amount. Warm the car up and remember the exhaust and oil will be hot!

Raise the car on ramps or axle stands, open the bonnet, remove the oil filler cap and partially pull out the dipstick yo allow air into the crankcase.

Looking under the car the sump drain plug is at the rear of the box-like sump on the left. 

View of the sump from front of car. The drain plug is at the back and its not immediately visible, so wriggle under some more and look back towards the sump (ie looking towards the front of the car).

sump drain plug.

Loosen the drain plug. Hold a drainage bowl under the plug as you remove it with your fingers. The oil is thin and will gush some distance so hold the bowl close and lower it carefully when you can see where it's going. If there is wind the draining oil will be flipped about.

Adjust the bowls position as the flow slows and leave it underneath to catch the dribbles. 

Changing the oil filter is done from beneath because...

the view is obstructed from above. Even from below you need to move right back to look up the side of the motor from behind the driveshaft.

Looking upwards from behind the drive shaft the filter is mounted horizontally on the side of the motor.

drive shaft.

Remove the oil filter using either a strap wrench or filter cup socket. Oil will spill so reposition the bowl and use paper towelling/puppy mats to catch spills. 

Fill the new filter with oil and let it soak in, smear oil around the sealing ring, then reach up and flip it horizontal to screw it onto the oil spigot... many oil filters have a non return valve, but even so this process will spill yet more oil so be prepared with mats or trays. Tighten the filter as far as possible by hand and an additional half turn using the wrench.

Replace the drain plug and clean as much spilt oil as you can from the underside of the car.

Use a funnel and remember to loosen the dipstick as you refill the motor. A drain and refill should take 4.l or so. I added 3.5 l of fresh oil (use fully synthetic 5-20 oil as recommended in the handbook). Insert the dipstick and fasten the oil filler cap.

Start the motor, the oil light may take slightly longer than usual to go out as the filter needs to refill and pressurise (hence the prefill step above). Once the light has gone out check for leaks from under the car. 

Remove the car to level ground, stop the motor and check the level with the dipstick. Top up with more oil to the max level.

Pollen Filter (cabin filter).

This is failrly easy to change except that in the UK the filter will be found in the drivers footwell and not as in the many videos out there, in the passenger's. You have to remove the plastic side cladding on the "transmission tunnel" or centre ridge. This is held on by a single torx screw and an array of plastic clips. It can be sprung out but be careful using levers so as not to damage its edges. Use of wide, flat trim removal tools should help.

Once the side panel is off the pollen filter housing is licated towards the front of the car

 Its vovered by  black plastic hatch secured with 3 semi-captive torx screws. Remove these and pull the cover off. The filter can then be withdrawn and a new one fitted. Note orientation and refit the same way;  although I suspect it would work perfectly well either way around.

Refit cover and trim.